Tag Archives: Hook

How to Play and Land Your Fish (part Two – Setting the Hook)

Now, you really can’t hope to land any sort of decent fish unless you’ve set the hook properly. As a general rule, it’s better to wait a little rather than set the hook too soon.

When you are ready to set the hook, bring in all the slack line, bring the rod tip down and point towards the fish, or where you think it’s likely to be if you can’t actually see. Bring the rod up sharply, and the chances are that you’ve hooked your fish.

Of course, that’s neccesarily a very simple, basic description. Setting the hook consistently does require a certain knack, which comes only with experience and practice. Some species, those that grab your lure and run, are easy to hook, almost to the point of self-hooking. Others, which suck and nibble, can be a problem.

Catfish for example will have a few chews, then swallow your bait down. Carp, and other “sucking” species hold the bait gently between their lips, and they should be allowed plenty of time to suck it in before you tighten the line and bring in your fish. Perch, bluegills, sunfish, and other panfish will bite nervously at the bait. These nibblers require lots of patience and self-control.

Many anglers just can’t wait, and as soon as they feel a few light “pecks” or “knocks” strike back. This simply jerks the hook away from the fish, and loses your bait. It’s nuch better to wait till you feel a strong tug, or feel the fish move away with your bait. Then a sharp lift of the rod will often set the hook. You will learn from experience when the tugs are strong enough for you to strike.

The larger the fish, and the larger the hook, the stronger the yank needed. And to confuse matters slightly, speed in striking back can sometimes be essential. For example, if you’re fishing surface lures, you should strike as soon as the fish hits the lure. Waiting even a fraction of a second could lose you the fish. Often these fish will hook themselves, but the added pull from you will set the hook firmly. Even when trolling, when we are expecting the fish to hook itself, it’s wise to give the rod a good firm yank.

Water conditions can often determine the timing of setting a hook. For instance, in swiftly moving water, the trout doesn’t have much time to decide wether or not to take a dry fly. When he does decide to take it, he does it with a rush, often hooking himself in the process. In still water there is much more time for him to look at what you are offering and take it slow. In these conditions trout will rarely hook themdelves, and you must strike quickly to set the hook.

When small wet flies are used, the line friction alone is often enough to hook the fish. In nymph-fishing downstream, raising the rod tip smartly will generally be all that’s required at the moment the hit is felt.

Some fish are slow, deliberate hitters, so your strike should be delayed. For example, when an atlantic salmon takes a dry fly, let him turn after the rise, and he’ll hook himself when the line tightens.

Finally, to hook a fish, your barb must penetrate the fish’s mouth, and for this reason it must be sharp. A good angler will test his hooks for sharpness before use. He will keep a small whetstone in his tackle box to hone his hooks as needed. And if that’s too much trouble, hooks are cheap. Never use old, worn, blunt hooks. For the sake of a few cents you could lose “the big one.”

Chris Haycock is an information publisher. One of whose many hobbies is fishing, of all types. Also researching resources to help the angler. For details of one such amazing resource go to:
http://www.lostflyfishingsecrets.com

How to Make Homemade Catfish and Carp Floating and Buoyant Hook Baits

An introduction into making especially effective buoyant hook baits for catfish and carp:

As you are rolling all your paste into balls before boiling as you would to make boiled carp or catfish baits, put aside, maybe 50 paste dough pieces, for use as ‘buoyant’ hook baits; these are excellent great for specially attractive purposes!

They can be great fished on their own over weed or silt, or as a ‘snowman’ when used on the hair or hook with a normal sinking boilie, or used on a variety of hook rigs from the water surface, at mid – water, or on and just off the bottom etc; in fact everywhere you might find a feeding carp or hunting catfish!

You can incorporate a piece of cork, or small balls of polystyrene into these dough pieces or even use a high amount of cork granules in a dedicated base mix, to adjust the amount of buoyancy of hook baits you want. These are available from the commercial companies too. The advantage with these is that your hook baits are identical in nutritional makeup and signal leak – off to your ‘free’ or ground baits.

Another method is to put a small number of smaller, normal baits on a plate, and microwave them in time increments of, e.g. 20 seconds, removing them before they begin to burn. These are soaked in attractors before use, to maximize attraction.

Another method is to adjust the level of ingredients until you arrive at a floating test bait. I’ve also had this happen by accident, and not design while experimenting with more buoyant ingredients like sodium caseinate, shrimp and krill meals, even some egg biscuit based bird foods, for example.

I use casein as the base with sodium caseinate and then other ingredients, as this offers great nutritional signals, while being a harder more resilient bait. You can buy ‘pop-up’ base mixes too from Nutrabaits, Rod Hutchinson, Solar Baits, etc. Again, these baits are left to soak in an extract / flavor / amino acid compound, for example, to harden, preserve, and maximize carp attraction.

Such baits fished just on their own on hard fished waters can be very productive, especially casting immediately to ‘rolling, and ‘head and shouldering’ carp!

Making great ‘floater cake’ bait:

The easiest method of mass producing personalized, random shaped nutritional floating bait is:

Make your base mix as normal but with much more buoyant ingredient, like 6 ounces per pound of sodium caseinate. Adding shrimp meal or krill meal will have the same effect and these are great proven nutritional attractors in themselves.

Add 2 extra eggs per pound dry mix (with bicarbonate of soda to put more air bubbles into it to help it float if necessary), leaving the mix more liquid than solid. Whisk the mix, and pour into a baking tray, and cook in the oven until risen and just brown on top.

A good trick is to use a high level of ground-up dog or cat food biscuits in your floater cake ; like ‘Pedigree Chum’. These baits work great on waters where carp regularly eat these biscuits as free baits, and have previously been caught. Such big fish are usually much more difficult to hook, on the biscuits themselves as bait, even though all ‘free’ biscuits are eaten, hook baits may be rejected. Very frustrating for the angler!

This fishing bait secret books author has many more fishing and bait ‘edges’ up his sleeve. Every single one can have a huge impact on catches!

By Tim Richardson.

For the unique acclaimed expert bait making and secrets ‘bibles’ ebooks / books:

“BIG CATFISH AND CARP BAIT SECRETS!”
AND “BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!” And ” BIG FLAVORS, FEEDING TRIGGERS AND CHEMORECEPTION EXPLOITATION SECRETS!” SEE:


http://www.baitbigfish.com


Tim is a highly experienced homemade bait maker big carp and catfish angler of 30 years. His bait enhancing books / ebooks now help anglers in 43 countries improve their results – see this bait and fishing secrets website now!

Carp Boilie Ingredients Choices For Cheap Successful Homemade Baits!

If you want to catch many more big fish then there are some exciting bait substances, fish senses, and vital energy and metabolism clues to help you attract more big fish to your hook baits! Far too many anglers ask themselves the wrong questions about fishing and baits that really are not that important! So begin by thinking more like a fish instead of an angler and get much better at asking yourself the most productive questions that bring success – and read on now!

So in the beginning when considering bait at all, why start of with bait itself at all when it is far more productive by starting off with taking a much better look at the fish?! Relatively very few anglers understand carp in detail so it is no surprise they have little idea how their baits might possibly work to attract fish to take baited hooks inside their mouths, but if you understood this imagine the power this provides you with over anglers with little or no knowledge or insight regarding this incredibly vital aspect of fishing.

Why be dependant on readymade boilies and pellets and exorbitantly-priced paste when there is no need whatever to blow your money away when you can make baits in the vast majority of cases as good if not much better?! It is in the interests of bait companies to make you dependant on their products and they use all kinds of sophisticated mans to achieve this but when you wake up and get better well-informed and make your own potently productive baits (of all forms,) you can seriously save yourself a fortune!

When it is you deciding your budget and costs of your bait, and deciding how they will work, how potent they will be, how different to normal they will be and how successful they will be and in what volumes at your own chosen price, then you really are a winner in so many ways, plus no-one will ever compete against you using the same baits as you ever again!

So set your own bait budget, cut your costs in advance and not let someone else decide your spending for you and save yourself a genuine fortune! Readymade baits cost so much each year or even per fishing session that undercutting these costs by making your own potent baits is very easy. Of course knowing significant details of things like how and why fish behave in the presence of substances they are sensitive to and so on, and how to exploit such things to get fish hooked on your own unique bait recipes repeatedly again and again is extremely productive!

Bait-making beginners can take many short-cuts by learning and avoiding the kinds of commonest mistakes that other bait-making anglers have made and then avoided themselves over the years through their own experience! Over the last 34 years of carp fishing I have had well over 80 percent of my own homemade baits work on many waters even from the first cast. Sure some waters demand bait changes and adjustments to be successful and these days this often is in regards to out-competing other baits as opposed to simply attracting fish!

Probably the commonest mistake bait-making beginners make is formulating a bait based on their personal opinions and own human perceptions of bait substances aromas, smells, tastes etc. The best way to avoid limiting success of your baits is to start with the fish and what they are most sensitive. Basing your baits on fish sensitivities is the most powerful starting point and this encourages you to think like a carp and not like an angler merely choosing a readymade bait flavour that thousands of others may have previously already exploited so massively reducing any competitive advantages.

Certain bait substances do necessarily not work on their own in water and need a bait carrier substance with which they can work synergistically to bring forth their most potent impacts on fish senses. However, many bait substances can be said to be very habit-forming and I include the essential amino acids and particular non-essential amino acids found in protein ingredients additives and liquids in this group too.

I am amazed at how many anglers feel they lack confidence in a bait if it has no strong discernible flavours or smell. Think about it; carp can sense substances down to a few parts in a billion and it will be very hard for the average carp angler to incorporate any substance in their bait that has no smell, taste or aroma or effect some sort of subtle electrical impact or difference on carp senses when in water for that matter that they will detect the presence of!

Carp can adapt all the time and sense new substances that are completely foreign to them and their environment and this is no surprise as this is how they have been able to evolve and exploit completely new potential food sources and monopolise them to supply their basic diet and vital energy needs in order to survive. Training carp to feed on your baits is just like training dogs using the rewards your baits offer that come in many forms in instant and more longer-lasting ways and these can be leveraged in creating more competitive baits with unique advantages over competing baits that my lack these benefits and rewards.

Your choices of baits substances will directly impact upon carp hormones released when being sensed and eaten, and the behaviours resulting from these releases – so you can have incredible power over carp and even manipulate if they will feed in frantic excited modes or in more leisurely and relaxed ways; but there is much more power in making baits than this! (For even more information on making, adapting, designing and boosting your baits whether readymade or homemade see my unique secrets website and biography right now!)

By Tim Richardson.

For the unique and acclaimed new massive expert bait making / enhancing ‘bibles’ ebooks / books: “BIG CATFISH AND CARP BAIT SECRETS!” And: “BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!” (AND “FLAVOUR, FEEDING TRIGGERS AND CHEMORECEPTION SECRETS”) SEE: http://www.baitbigfish.com Tim Richardson is a homemade carp and catfish bait-maker, and proven big fish angler. His bait making and bait enhancing books / ebooks are even used by members of the “British Carp Study Group” for reference. View this dedicated bait secrets website now…

Homemade Carp and Catfish Baits – How to Make Them Instantly Attractive!

* Many thoughts exist on making baits and so many ideas and opinions contradict each other. So how to find the truth about what really works?!

Well, for example, in creating recipes for an instantly attractive carp or catfish bait, (these very often work for both species) people argue over ingredients, and how baits actually trigger that crucial fish feeding response.

A good sign when designing your homemade bait is that it instantly attracts the attention of a wide range of species. This might be great if you want to target all these others, but your bait might be attracting ‘bait fish’ around your hook bait that will attract the much bigger predatory, or curious catfish, or carp.

Such baits vary from just 2 ingredients and a flavour, to the most advanced produced by fish nutritionists and biochemists. But for each extreme, there are ideas and principles common to each, so let’s start by looking at what makes a ‘simple bait’:

To begin with, the simplest baits often utilize cheaper bulk ingredients as basic as wheat or corn flour, with a ‘high energy value’ but a low protein content.

Such baits may seem easy to distinguish from the ‘balanced nutritional profile’ protein based baits, but things overlap: Each type works and seems to contradict each other’s theory of why they should work at all!

And perhaps the key is less to do with the effort and energy cost to the carp, of eating your bait, versus its bio – energy reward for doing so. But more to do with exploiting methods of initial feeding response stimulation and initial bait small, taste and palatability. For example, we all know that food that is very nutritious can be repellent because of its strong taste or smell; some people hate fish, or garlic, or certain vegetables…

So what are the theoretical origins of carp baits made from ‘humble’ low protein and economical ‘carbohydrate’ ingredients, after all, we all know sweet corn is one of the greatest carp baits of all time, even catching a British record or two, but is primarily a sweet low protein carbohydrate food?

Traditionally the best known low protein flavor attractor ‘commercial bait’ (used world wide) is probably is Rich worth’s or Rod Hutchinson’s ‘Tutti Fruiti’ flavor / boilie. Fish love certain alcohols / combinations far more than others and a cheap semolina / soya flour base mix were ideal to carry this attractor label, and work anywhere.

However, flavors were originally used in baits to change their TASTE, when catch results achieved on the low nutrition baits were slowing down, and NOT because flavors actually worked as attractors in their own right! (Although they have evolved to become so today.)

There are still many cheaper flavors, sold as ‘carp attractors’ that are really only ‘labels’ for your base mix, and do not have much in them that will trigger carp into feeding on your bait! Carp can be fooled for quite a while though; A very successful UK angler (Andy Little) who was the first to land thirty 30 pound carp in a season, did this: he began catching by feeding a high nutritional value bait into the lake (SAVAY), and as time and catches grew, his bait ran out.

So, he put the same flavor label (strawberry?) in a cheaper, low protein, high carbohydrate base mix, and he continued to catch successfully for some time. The carp had associated the flavor ‘label’ with nutritional benefit, and were fooled into carrying on eating the new bait – despite its lack of food nutrition benefits!

This category of basic dry mix consists mainly of high carbohydrate ingredients which also roll and bind together easily. A basic combination of 50 / 50 % semolina flour and soya flour is the most commonly used base, although this has often added nutritional factors added like vitamins and minerals, cheap fishmeal, an amino acid source like corn steep liquor for added attraction etc.

These baits are often highly coloured with ‘fluorescent’ edible dyes to get carp to see them more quickly and easily, black, pink and white and background contrasting colors are often ones I’ve done well on when I’ve made these baits.

You have to ask how carp see these colors in water at different light intensities, of day / night, water clarity etc, and to come to your own conclusions. White seems good as anything, and I’ve caught plenty of good carp on this.

Other ingredients are added to give a ‘variety’ or initial difference to the bait, as a carbohydrate bait can ‘blow’ very quickly compared to high nutrition baits on some water, for example a difficult, low stock density, high natural food / exceptionally high water quality lake. It can take much work in pre – baiting for example, to keep ahead of the carp’s natural wariness having been caught on these baits, and even to get them to eat such baits initially!..

You can change your bait characteristics; type of attractors, color, rate of attraction leak – off, ‘crunch factor’, etc. Instant attractor baits are often highly coloured and ‘over – flavored’ with sometimes with natural juice incorporated flavors; solvent based flavors (e.g., acetates and similar groups of chemicals), or alcohol and oil based flavors for example, and attractive extracts like that of fermented fish /shellfish.

Changing the flavors, especially of ‘non solvent’ based ones, can keep the bait working purely on the basis of flavor attraction. (Some say these baits work by ‘simulating’ the carp’s natural food signals, ionizing the area of water around the bait but there is far more to this and it is a very advanced area to really begin to understand.)

Cheaper ingredients, like ground cereals or bean derived flours and meals, make this style of bait cost effective, simple, and very quick to produce. Years ago I used to soak my baits in a mixture of pure ethyl alcohol flavors, oil based flavor extracts and liquid ‘Robin Red’ extract. The main cost was flavors and added attractors and they keep working when changed regularly although I always use a liquid protein source as a bait soak / and in the bait as I have found carp caught by doing this are often much bigger!!

I recall the first time I experimented with overloading baits with ‘raw’ undiluted flavors around 1980… I caught all night, trebling my catch rate at that time. But I used this bait only over 6 weeks, as 90 % of the carp were smaller ones 6 pounds to 16 pounds. Very nice catches despite this.

I tried this approach on a giant water in the south of France (Lac Du Salagou) about 15 years ago. I hooked a fish only 15 minutes after arriving. It was gigantic too, and emptied my reel, snapped the line, leaving my friends laughing, in a mixture of amazed shock and jealous relief that I did not land it!!! I’d gradually stripped off down to my underpants and waded out 30 yards to chest deep water too! (I wonder if the video they took of the action still exists – eh Mr Grimes!?) I still wonder about that fish….

Please be warned: Be aware that highly flavored instant attractor type baits can badly ‘backfire on you’ and actually be extremely repellant to many big carp on some waters, owing to high pH factors etc, and also where it has been used on a water, by many anglers, for quite some time.

The biggest, most wary of fish can be terrified of over flavoured baits and even the average artificially flavored bait simply because it recognizes that signal as related to danger! You may wonder why you almost never even hook a bigger fish on such a bait at certain waters. Remember, the aim of the bait is to get a carp to pick up the bait as confidently as possible, as this gives the greatest chance of obtain a solid hook hold!

I took a quality milk protein and wheat germ bait to the famous ‘Rainbow Lake’ in France, and made a terrible mistake by putting the recommended synthetic flavor in it, instead of leaving it out completely! This bait produced NO takes at all, and I ended up catching fish around 50 pounds on other bait with no flavor instead!…

The Japanese and American scientists have both proven that carp instinctively prefer a protein instead for a Carbohydrate based food.

In one of a series of similar tests producing similar results, a carp diet was supplemented with a carbohydrate food. The carp regularly ate this food for only one week before stopping. This particular food was ignored for a total of 26 weeks, but when a protein based food was then offered, it was eaten immediately!

The Japanese probably lead the world in knowledge of carp nutrition and carp attractors, with over a thousand years of history in carp breeding, testing and so on.

I’ve read that in many tests carp are induced into feeding less nutritional food, by adding PLANT EXTRACTS and NOT SYNTHETIC CHEMICAL FLAVORS. For example, I’ve seen fenugreek extract used, and this is a component of the extremely successful commercially produced ‘maple’ flavor. You must assume that these scientists are at the top of this whole game, so if they’re using it in tests as a carp feeding trigger it probably great to use in bait!

I also got the impression reading about the writings of the famous milk protein bait pioneer, Fred Wilton, that these baits were EQUALLY as effective or perhaps even MORE so, when synthetic flavours were NOT used in them! (So give it a go!)

Once, about 16 years ago, I was catching some good carp using very successful instant attractor baits, when the carp started head and shouldering, ‘en mass’, straight out of my swim, without returning; someone had just put out a large quantity of his own secret ‘High Nutritional Value’ bait (based on anchovy and sardine fishmeal), and the carp had shown their preference immediately! This taught me a BIG lesson about the advantages of really understanding essential carp nutrition in bait and how carp feeding behaviour can be manipulated by using the right bait at the right time on a particular water!!!

In some circumstances where there is sufficient baits of nutritional quality, fish mass population / density/ competition with other species / natural food supply etc, low protein carbohydrate baits can still continue to be effective, and consistently catch almost all the fish in a lake: The key seems to be in, if enough large quantities of a particular bait are introduced, and the attractors, e.g., chemical flavour labels are changed regularly enough, then they will continue to be successful.

One outstanding example of this happening on a water where quality protein and balanced nutritional profile baits had been used for many years there, was at the famous UK water; Darenth. In one season most of the waters biggest carp were landed on a carbohydrate bait based on full fat semolina and soya flour.

It may seem surprising, but then perhaps the fish treated it as a low energy cost food source as over 1 tonne was put in and it was used consistently by the majority of the anglers on fishing the at that time! Only when the anglers’ fashions changed and they tried other types of baits in large quantities did this trend in results on ‘instant baits’ reduce.

They do work well however and on a bait of a similar design, the old French “Rainbow Lake” record carp of 76 pounds was landed in 2006.

There are increasingly more countries and waters where ‘carp bait selectivity’ is now a common occurrence owing to intensive fishing pressure on carp; they can eat foods selectively while ignoring or preferring certain baits above others!

Worldwide carp do seem to literally eat almost anything used as bait. Overall, however, the majority of the heaviest carp caught in the UK seem to be caught on nutritionally based baits, but questions still arise concerning those captures by ‘instant attractor baits’ and why they can ‘trip – up’ many of the biggest carp at times… after all, carp are only conditioned by anglers and THEIR habits and preferences!

This fishing bait secrets books author has many more fishing and bait ‘edges’ up his sleeve. Every single one can have a huge impact on catches.

By Tim Richardson.

For the unique acclaimed expert bait making and secrets ‘bibles’ ebooks / books:

“BIG CATFISH AND CARP BAIT SECRETS!”
AND “BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!” And ” BIG FLAVORS, FEEDING TRIGGERS AND CHEMORECEPTION EXPLOITATION SECRETS!” SEE:


http://www.baitbigfish.com


Tim is a highly experienced homemade bait maker big carp and catfish angler of 30 years. His bait enhancing books / ebooks now help anglers in 43 countries improve their results. See this bait and fishing secrets website now!

Float Fishing for Carp

So many carp anglers use static setups these days that you could be forgiven for thinking that float fishing for big carp is a lost art, amazing really as it can be one of the most adrenalin filled methods for targeting big fish at close quarters there has ever been!


I have heard of many a carp angler who is become bored with the current trend for fishing static set-ups at extreme distances in some cases not even casting a rod but using a bait boat to ship out a lead and hookbait to some distant location – no wonder the heart has stopped pumping – that alone would be enough to make me fall asleep! All I would say to such anglers is break out a float rod and have some fun!


As methods go, they do not get much simpler – all you need is a float and a hook! Forget your bite alarms, rod pods, swingers and suchlike – this is proper fishing designed to put your heart in your mouth every time the float twitches! My standard float fishing set up for big carp consists of a light action carp rod of around 1.5lb to 2lb test curve, which provides exciting sport when playing fish at close quarters, twinned with a lightweight coarse reel – there is no need for big pit reels or baitrunners – so long as it has a drag facility which allows you to adjust the tension during the battle it will do just fine. Spool it up with a quality monofilament line, my personal choice is Daiwa Sensor. The breaking strain will depend on the water you are fishing; if it is free of snags, weed and other submerged obstructions you can use a lower diameter, say between 8lb and 10lb, or increase it up towards 12lb or more if conditions dictate.


Again, on a personal level I like to keep things light as this increases the enjoyment factor when playing fish close in, so most of the time I will use 10lb or below. There are countless floats available for carp fishing, but to be honest I only have about five different types in my tackle box which I find cover me for all eventualities. To fish a standard float set up I like to use a self weighted carp float, not only does this save time when setting up but it means you can swap and change easily when faced with a different distance rather than having to take off or apply different shots to the line each time you want to change distance and depth.


As most of my float fishing for carp is carried out stalking fashion I am never going to be casting huge distances more likely just dropping the float out to marginal features like weedbeds, lily pads or reedmace in the margins. As such I only need enough weight to cast the float a few yards so a pre-weighted float is perfect for flicking out the hookbait. If I want to attract carp on the drop or if I am fishing for spooky carp I won’t attach any shot to the line at all, but if I want to get the bait on the lake bed quickly I will add a small shot or a chunk of rig-putty about three inches from the hookbait to help it reach bottom quickly.


Hook size is critical as you need to match the hook to the size of hookbait. Too many anglers think you need huge hooks to bank carp, which is simply not the case. Most of my stalking and surface fishing for carp is carried out using hooks between size 12 and 16 and rarely do I lose a fish due to the hook pulling! You don’t really need hair-rigs, just mount your bait on the hook and away you go! Just remember to carry an unhooking mat so you can deal with a big fish safely on the bank.


Try to fish to obvious features where carp might visit and keep trickling in loosefeed on a “little and often” basis in order to grab their attention when they do come along. My personal preference for bait is something that moves, something that stops the carp in its tracks when it passes by – and as such I usually favour maggots or worms.


It really is as simple as that, the adrenalin rush on seeing the float slide away before having the rod bend double just can’t be beaten and I can assure you you’ll never be bored again! I have bagged countless lumps recently on the methods and tactics described above. So why don’t you get out there and do the same.

James Johnson, carp fisherman that has caught the big one, the little one and sometimes none at all. Just like most fisherman, the one that got away is always the biggest. Carp Fishing from Trevs Tackle North West Carp