Tag Archives: Fishing

Family Fishing Holidays in France

France is a country that has a wonderful variety of fishing from the North through to the South and caters for fly fishing, course and game fishing on a wide range of rivers and lakes. Plus there is plenty of coast line for the sea angler to enjoy as well.

Carp fishing, cat fishing, not forgetting course and pike fishing are just some of the holidays that you can enjoy in France and whilst some places cater for the dedicated angler, others are more family orientated with accommodation and activities for the non fishers.

There are several types of fishing holiday available and for trout fishing, you would need to book from around the middle to end of March up until around the first week of September, which is the only time frame you are allowed to fish for trout in France.

In certain areas of France, salmon fishing is prohibited all year, so it is always best to check on the area you are going, prior to thinking that you will be able to get a licence for fly fishing, just like that.

Every country has numerous different regulations and France is no exception, with specific rules in place for what type of fish you can catch, when you are allowed to catch certain species of fish and what equipment you are allowed to fish with.

For some, this can be a daunting prospect, especially if you are not fluent in French, and although in some areas it will be easier than others to organise your fishing venue and licence, it is often easier to pre-organise your fishing holiday, so do try and get as much information as possible.

You must have a fishing licence to fish in rivers, streams and lakes throughout France unless these are privately owned or booked as a fishing holiday where the fishing licence requirements are normally included, but it is advisable to check this out before you travel!

If you need to obtain your own fishing permit, these can usually be obtained from the local fishing tackle shop or alternatively from the local bar or tobac. But if you are not sure on what is required then you can get advice from the local tourist information board, which can also provide maps of where you can and cannot fish.

If you are only going to be on holiday in France for a short time, then you can get what is known as The Carte de Peche de Vacances, which covers an angler for up to fifteen consecutive days and can be used between 1st June and 30th November. However, outside of these dates an annual fishing licence is mandatory.

An annual permit may be used for the whole year but bear in mind that this will only be for one department unless you get it stamped for different areas that you may go to and this is something that you will need for all fresh water fishing.

When it comes to catfish and carp fishing, you can get a licence to do this in the local rivers or public lakes, but the majority of people will want to opt for a carp fishing holiday on a dedicated lake. And when you go to a dedicated privately owned lake for carp fishing, cat fishing, etc, then you will not normally have to worry about getting your own individual licence as this will already have either been sorted out by the travel agency or the owner under their regulations.

Boats are allowed to be used quite a bit in France, but you may need to have a separate part to your licence to enable you to use a boat, even if it is only for baiting. But be careful if you have an echo sounder in your boat, as you are not allowed to have both this and your tackle in the boat at the same time!

Also, night fishing is prohibited in a lot of places in France, but when on a private fishing lake, or if with the correct licence on certain waters, this can be allowed. If not, then you can only fish half hour after sunrise to half hour before sunset. Some places on the rivers seine, rhone, mosselle, oise, madine and rhine, etc do allow night fishing, but there are many places that do ban the use of a bivvy or tent even if night fishing is allowed and you may only get away with a brolly!

Sea fishing off of the Atlantic coast is excellent and you will be pleased to know that a licence is not needed, and you can go out on a boat to catch bass, conger eels and even tuna or surf cast for sea bream to name but a few.

Fly fishing for salmon and trout is available in lots of public canals and navigable rivers but as with most countries, these will also contain other fish such as Pike, so beware! However some of the best places to try your hand at fly fishing are often owned by groups and in this case you would need to pay the owners for a permit to fish as well as having your licence.

Some of the best salmon fishing in France can be found in the Pyrenees Atlantiques and the river Loire is also a major salmon fishery for France.

Some of the best fishing in France is for course fishing where you will find lots of different species, but with carp, catfish and pike being in abundance, especially in areas such as the Dordogne, Lot and Charente Maritime. But if you like fishing for black bass, the river Rhone is known as a premier bass fishery, as is the river Saone.

The fishing dates and times do vary each year in France, so it is always advisable to check on these before planning your fishing holiday, and at the end of the day, forget about the headaches of the licences, just enjoy the whole experience and you too could be in with a chance of catching a fish that has never been caught before!

www.placesinfrance.com


Martyn Davis European Traveller, Author, Photographer and Business Development Manager, For all your French holiday needs and travel guide to France, with tourist information, landmarks and attractions – Family Fishing Holidays In France

Using a Fishing Rod

Rods are basically made from carbon. Plastic, composite carbon combined with Kevlar, which is a kind of material that is bullet proof, or just high carbon. Since the carbon’s force and strength in connection to its mass is light, making it strong material that can allow thinner fabrication but still is able to keep the span and length. A rod that is lighter evidently handling will be easier, controlling it would be less tiring on ones arms and reduces resistance to air giving one an easier time accurately casting it, particularly on windy ways.

Rods come in silicon carbide, hard chrome or ceramic rings having a function of letting the line pass through. These are precisely used because of their smoothness having the function to minimize friction when passing through the line and keep the maximum strength. Silicon materials are a fact costly, so an alternative is bring into play ceramic rings like Zircon which when taken in to account, it is not as tough or as light, but is much cost effective. Rings made of chrome are better, although every season they require replacement, they do deliver excellent job of line running. At least thirteen rings are needed from the handle all through the tip, lesser near the handle, needing more close to the tip. The line can fasten itself to the rod, if you don’t have enough rings.

When determining length of the rod, you want to take into account exactly what kind of fishing you want. If you want far out fishing, in that case choose a larger rod as this will offer you better control when you are playing the fish. If you are planning to go fishing in an area that is enclosed, you will need a shorter rod. Normally, the safe rod size to choose is13ft (3.9m). This is lengthy enough for a waggler but does not cast out too far.

Handles

Handles are made from either cork or foam. Whichever you choose, this is a matter of preference. Just try handling both materials so you can have a good “feel” before buying it.

Action

Action is the term used in describing how the rod will bend when it is placed under the lot of strain and effort of a fighting fish.

There are two types of tip on a rod, the hollow and spliced tips. Hollow tips are good in catching carp, tench and chub which have a progressive or developing action making it sharp for quick bites, yet proficient enough to manage long distance strikes. Spliced tips normally are normally spliced to the end with two feet solid carbon. This rod is sharper so it is a good pick for fast acting fish.

When choosing a rod, these questions will help you pick the right one:

1. How frequent and where do you fish? Are you a beginner, a weekend warrior, or a tournament pro? If you are just starting out, you may need to budget and spend less money on your first rod. Once you learn the techniques and once you have decided that fishing is for you, that is the time to spend on more specific rods.

2. Freshwater or Saltwater fish? While there are a few rods that can be used for both fresh and saltwater fish, most rods are made for a specific purpose and application.

3. Spinning or Casting? The species you that you choose to chase will determine it.

4. Power, sensitivity, and your technique. The rod should match the way you enjoy fishing. If you like to fish with lures, then you should look for a rod that is comfortable enough to cast frequently all day long.

Find out more about fishing including sea fishing and fly fishing at About fishing

Homemade Carp Bait Recipes To Sky Rocket Your Fishing Success!

 

Think about it – the basic idea of providing wary carp with a new bait to stay ahead of their natural cautions is well proven but the ways to do it have not changed drastically over the decades. But here are innovative solutions that your carp will not have experienced before!

Many anglers use 2 different baits on a hair rig and mostly this is using a buoyant pop-up bait plus a sinking bait to balance it and negate the hook weight (this makes it more difficult for wary fish to detect your hook.) Maybe you have done very well as I have by using 2 or 3 different types of pop-up and sinking baits on single or multiple hair rigs!

Since the early eighties I have really liked using multiple baits but on more than one hair and this idea is becoming fashionable right now – but there are endless variations that would amaze you! The advantage many forms of multiple-hair types of rigs compared to many more standard hair rigs is that you can get your hook inside the mouth of the fish before it even realises it has a hook attached to baits because the hook is that much further in front of the baits – so goes into the mouth before the bait!

Most anglers are fishing with baits fairly tightly next to the hook or fishing baits that get sucked in followed by a hook behind. In both these situations wary carp can either hold baits in their lips and play with a rig to feel for a hook or take the bait in but reject it when they sense the hook for any reason.

Looking at the bigger picture, if you put a thousand anglers on a set of pressured carp lakes and do not even let them use hair rigs of any kind then carp will get caught. But if you say to them you are not allowed to use any currently fashionable or conventional rig at all but must invent your own new versions that may or may not have multiple hairs or multiple baits of literally any kind, then actually catches will improve massively because they fish will not know what has hit them!

The recipe for success is simply to by-pass any reference points that carp have come to associate with danger and in this case with hooks and conventional or standard baits and rig set-ups – so be different and reap the inevitable rewards! Personally whatever is fashionable in the magazines are things I would avoid or simply adapt in my own way so I am not replicating what thousands of my fellow anglers will be doing next weekend!

The fact is that most readymade boilies or pellets have very similar shapes whether round, barrel or pellet-shaped. When you fully appreciate that fish are practicing 24 hours a day at detecting hook baits shaped like this and you actually see the behaviours and feeding motions carp use to avoid getting hooked it basically makes you see how vital is to be different in order to not let carp use their tricks so easily. For instance, on so many so-called anti-eject rigs carp can be seen to actually pick a bait up, sit upright slowly, or spin, shake or do other tricks like lift up the rig or lead with a fin, then up-end and dump the hook and bait back down again. This kind of thing goes on all the time with heavy leads and semi-fixed rigs for instance.

I have never yet found a chemically sharpened hook as effective as a manually honed hook. The first 4 millimetres of a hook are the most important. The angle of the bend and shank and gap of the hook which is the distance between the hook shank and the hook point in effect both make a massive difference in your hooking ration both neither of these are important if your hook penetrates so far but then can be shaken loose – and all non-manually sharpened hooks have this problem.

In 10 years of tests using all kinds of new and old favourite chemically sharpened hooks patterns non has converted as effectively as hooks that have been manually sharpened. It amazes me how many well-known anglers still persist in using chemically-sharpened hooks with a short hook point – for me such hooks are completely useless whether they are specially-angled, have a long curved shank, an in-turned eye, micro-barb or wide gap or whatever.

The best guarantee to initially deep hooking wary fish upon very first contact with a fish is to choose hooks with a longer point that is as thin and as sharp as is possible and I have yet to find any pattern whatever that beats the effectiveness of exceptionally sharp manually honed hooks sharp well beyond their chemically sharpened state in the packet!

My conclusions after years of testing hooks against this manual method is that you might as well put on a rig without a hook on and let every fish pick up your bait then drop it and get away without giving you any indication at all. I know without any doubt whatsoever that so many anglers are missing out on fish due their hooks not being maximised that simply no-one would believe the numbers!

I might be going into areas beyond what so anglers might like to think about but I find that removing the coating from hooks also produces more fish. In part this probably means they do not reflect light under water so well – very few hooks do not reflect light very obviously no matter what colour their coating is. It is very likely also that as hooks with no coating actively rust under water this may actually be attractive or stimulatory to carp in some way and this treatment may also have impacts regarding the electrical field formed around rig swivels and hooks and leads etc that carp can detect – mineral rich natural water is an electrolyte after all!

Most anglers do not appear to fully appreciate that the modern style of sitting behind an array of rods waiting for a run or a few bleeps on alarms requires that a rig actually penetrates and self-hooks fish to the degree that the hook really does penetrate enough into flesh so it stays put long enough for either the fish to decide to move off and give you a run, or for you to strike at a bleep or 2 on your alarms (if you happen to be a sharper carper that is!)

Of all the things I spend time doing in connection with fishing I spend the most time on hook sharpening because after all the efforts involved in making sure everything else is as refined as possible the last 4 millimetres of hook point are ultimately the thing that decides just how many times you will actually properly hook the kinds of oldest biggest wariest of fish that are most skilled at shaking and slipping hooks out after making mistakes on hook baits! (Was that single bleep you had during that last feeding spell yet another lost fish you will never know had picked up your bait but got away with it?!)

More and more often on carp waters today the fish are getting increasingly larger numbers of anglers fishing for them more and more regularly. It is obvious that the result of this is that fish are getting more and more practice at avoiding hooks and slipping hooks – even when initially getting partially hooked.

Wary fish learn by simple association and with most magazine writers using plastic coated rigs or types of stiffer hook-links in short lengths of maybe 4 to 8 inches (and encouraging readers to copy them,) carp very soon learn how to get off such rigs when used so much even though it will appear that such rigs are very effective because a certain percentage of fish still move off and deepen the hook penetration for so fish get caught.

It is a fact that certain fish a far more adept at actually getting off hooks (when initially hooked) compared to other fish – and that some fish are far less skilled. Compared to other fish often the downfall of so-called mug fish is that they just are not as skilled at shaking or twisting off hooks when initially hooked unlike other fish and so they get landed far more frequently than lesser-caught big fish!

Some of the so-called big mug fish in carp waters may have unique genetically related nutritional deficiencies and unique eating requirements or sensitivities to certain substances (or have certain taste specifics.) They may very likely have angler-caused diseases such as vitamin E deficiency caused by consuming large quantities of high oil pellets that anglers today seem addicted to using as free offerings in huge volumes without thinking of the consequences on carp health!

Few anglers actually stop to think to add up the actual volume of high oil pellets and boilies that enter the food chain where numbers of anglers constantly introduce bait on pressured fisheries!

Sure some big fish are far more naturally feeding type fish but all this shows how each and every fish is an individual and treating them as such will definitely help you catch those big wary fish! Revealed in my unique readymade bait and homemade bait carp and catfish bait secrets ebooks is far more powerful information – look up my unique website (Baitbigfish) and see my biography for details of my ebooks deals right now!

By Tim Richardson.

Now why not seize this moment to improve your catches for life with these unique fishing bibles: “BIG CARP FLAVOURS FEEDING TRIGGERS AND CARP SENSES EXPLOITATION SECRETS!” “BIG CARP AND CATFISH BAIT SECRETS!” And “BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!” For these and much more now visit:

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The home of the world-wide proven homemade bait making and readymade bait success secrets bibles and more unique free bait secrets articles by Tim Richardson!

Basic Guide To Carp Fishing

Frustrating as it is, carp fishing is awesome. Carp are really good at sucking in and blowing out suspicious baits. It’s such an excitement to see the whole action in a fraction of a second as you hang on for dear life while the reel is trembling with a loud noise.


Carp happily devour on the surface as long as you keep the pellets, biscuits, chic peas, bread, and re-hydrated corn coming in, and these are inexpensive baits as well. Just attach them to the hooks, most preferably the bread. Have the biscuits softened by dipping it in the water for about 2 minutes, then, place them in a sealed sandwich bag for about an hour. Since different brands have different textures, just experiment to know which is firm enough to cast. Another way to hook baits is super gluing the pellet into the shank.


Once they get into feeding, let them feel comfortable around the bait. This gives more opportunity for the fisherman since they begin to not feel picky. This tactic can be useful for zig rigs.


As soon as they’re feeding, cast the bait but make sure not to drop the bait directly onto the feeding carp. Cast away from the feeding area then slowly draw it in position. While the bait is till hanging, keep the food coming in so as to keep the carp from going away.


How to Set-Up?


– Use a hair rig to increase your chance of catching. As carp taste food first, if they don’t like the taste, they won’t come near it.


– You may also use a Spider Line, 50 lbs test, then use a leader material that fits the situation.


– Thread the bait on the baiting needle and hook the hair loop. You may also use foam dipped in a flavor as this enhances the attractiveness of the bait.


– Also make a baiting needle by just straightening a long shank hook. Slide the bait on the shank, then slide the bait from the needle onto the hair.


-Using a float is also an advantage because it adds weight for further distancing and the location is easily identified.


– Don’t forget the controller float rig. A leader can be used which is attached to the swivel to its mainline of at least 3 feet length with a 10lbs Drennan double strength. A low diameter mono will do just as long as erts say, it is not the bait that catches the carp but the method in which the bait is introduced. Pre-bait everyday, in one spot for a few days. This makes the carp think that there is a regular source of food for them and by word of mouth there’ll soon be a school of fish around. Just be patient and it will all work.

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