Tag Archives: Hook

How To Fly Fish For Carp

Fly fishing for carp is awesome and frustrating at the same time. Carp have a really uncanny ability to spit out baits they deem suspicious before you have a chance to set your hook.  Although it’s a very exciting thing to see, it can also be heartbreaking to see a large carp disregard your bait and quickly swim away. If you do hook one, however, hold on for deal life and hold on to that trembling, vibrating fishing pole!

Carp regularly come to the surface looking for food and the best baits to lure them there are breads, chic peas, salmon eggs and canned corn. These are all inexpensive baits as well.  These baits must be securely attached to a #4 or #6 hook.  It’s advisable to break your bread into small portions, dampen it, seal it in a sandwich bag, and let it sit in the sun for about an hour or so.  Since different breads have different textures,you’ll have to experiment to know which one will stay firm enough to cast.  Another great bait are the pellets which you can buy ready to use.  These are simply store made versions of classic baits, all rolled into a convenient, and smelly pellet!

Carp tend to scare easily, so when they begin to swim around your bait, be careful not to jerk the bait and scare them away.  The longer they analyze the bait, the more comfortable they’ll become.  This is the fisherman’s best chance for a nice strike.  This tactic can be very useful if using zig rigs.

If a carp takes your bait, quickly rebait your hook and cast back in.  Don’t cast directly on top of the feeding carp or they will surely scatter.  Cast away from the feeding area then slowly reel the bait into position.  Slowly reel your bait into the middle of the feeding carp, and try hard to keep it as close to the surface as possible.  You may want to rig it 6-8 inches unter a float to ensure it sits close to the surface. 

Here are some tips that have been helpful to me:

-Use smaller amounts of bait for carp.  They nibble at the bait, and a big chunk will allow them to nibble for a long time before getting to the hook.  You don’t want them to get their fill without taking your hook.

-Use heavyweight line and a steel leader.  Carp tend to rub their teeth and gums together after they bite, and this can break your line.  I recommend at least thirty pound test line, as carp are voracious fighters.

-Dip a piece of sponge in some fish scent (can be bought at any bait 7 tackle store) and hang the sponge above your hook.  The scent will help the carp find the bait-and your hook.

-Using a float is a good idea because it helps keep your bait close to the surface and it’s easy to find your rig.  You can also tell right away when you get a bite.

-When fly fishing for carp, use a standard five second count after your fly or bait hits the water.  If you don’t get any hits, increase it to ten seconds.  Carp tend to practice restraint if they are unsure of a bait.  Those extra seconds could mean the difference between getting a bite or not. 

In the end, it really isn’t the bait that’s most important but how the bait is fished.  Throwing some bait into the water before fishing, also called “chumming”, can also be an effective technique to draw carp to your fishing area.  This makes the carp think that there is an excessive amount of food for them there and before you know it there will be a large school of them ready to feed.  The number one key to fishing is patience.  If you can wait them out and wait for them to realize there is food available, you’ll definitely catch a big carp.

If you would like to learn more about fishing for carp and read some more fly fishing tips, visit: Fishing Tips For Beginners

Preparing Rigs for Fishing for Bass

When you’re fishing for bass, there will be days when the fish are just not biting. These are the days when you need to use different types of baits to attract their attention and lure the bass to your hook. There are three rigs you should have to help you catch any type of bass when it seems you are wasting your time. These are:

– Texas rigs

– Carolina rigs, and

– Floating rigs

According to professional bass anglers, these are probably the best three baits that will help you catch bass under any conditions. You shouldn’t rely on having just one because these are the tools of the trade when it comes to bass fishing.

 

Anglers have used the Texas rig successfully for more than 25 years.  It is very simple to set up and you are practically guaranteed to catch bass, that is, if you are fishing in a lake or river where there are bass. All you need to rig a Texas rig is a hook, line and sinker. The sinker is usually a bullet shaped slip sinker, which you attach to the line so that the smallest part of the weight is facing upwards. Using a worm hook, you then tie the hook on the end of the line. The next step is to tie on your artificial bait, which depends on the season of the year. For example, in summer, a lure that resembles shad is the best and in spring, one that resembles carp is best.

 

For the Carolina rig, you need to have a bit more equipment to get started, which is:

– main reel line

– a barrel swivel

– a length of 2-pound test leader line (about 6 feet)

– a weight

– glass or brass bead or a rattle chamber

– hook

Tie one end of the leader line to the barrel swivel. Put the main on the main line from the reel and then tie on the bead or rattle chamber, whichever you are using. Then tie the end of the main line to the other end of the barrel swivel. When you have this done, you tie your hook to the other end of the leader line.

 

The Floating rig is the most indispensable lure you can have in your fishing arsenal. You only need a small barrel swivel and a hook. Use about three inches of your main line as a leader line and tie it to one end of the barrel. Tie the other end of the barrel to the main line and then tie on the hook. You don’t use any weight for this rig because you need to have more buoyancy. This rig is designed for use with plastic baits and floating worms.

 

For fishing around rocks, the Floating rig is the best one to use because the others will get tangled up. If you are fishing a downward slope, the best rig to choose is the Carolina rig because it will stay in contact with the contours of the bottom of the river. When fishing a bull rush field, you will have more success with a Texas rig because you can make more accurate casts with the weight.

For more bass fishing tips and tricks,bass techniques and other topics related to fishing for bass visit http://www.BassFishingTechniques.net

Homemade Carp Bait Recipes To Sky Rocket Your Fishing Success!

 

Think about it – the basic idea of providing wary carp with a new bait to stay ahead of their natural cautions is well proven but the ways to do it have not changed drastically over the decades. But here are innovative solutions that your carp will not have experienced before!

Many anglers use 2 different baits on a hair rig and mostly this is using a buoyant pop-up bait plus a sinking bait to balance it and negate the hook weight (this makes it more difficult for wary fish to detect your hook.) Maybe you have done very well as I have by using 2 or 3 different types of pop-up and sinking baits on single or multiple hair rigs!

Since the early eighties I have really liked using multiple baits but on more than one hair and this idea is becoming fashionable right now – but there are endless variations that would amaze you! The advantage many forms of multiple-hair types of rigs compared to many more standard hair rigs is that you can get your hook inside the mouth of the fish before it even realises it has a hook attached to baits because the hook is that much further in front of the baits – so goes into the mouth before the bait!

Most anglers are fishing with baits fairly tightly next to the hook or fishing baits that get sucked in followed by a hook behind. In both these situations wary carp can either hold baits in their lips and play with a rig to feel for a hook or take the bait in but reject it when they sense the hook for any reason.

Looking at the bigger picture, if you put a thousand anglers on a set of pressured carp lakes and do not even let them use hair rigs of any kind then carp will get caught. But if you say to them you are not allowed to use any currently fashionable or conventional rig at all but must invent your own new versions that may or may not have multiple hairs or multiple baits of literally any kind, then actually catches will improve massively because they fish will not know what has hit them!

The recipe for success is simply to by-pass any reference points that carp have come to associate with danger and in this case with hooks and conventional or standard baits and rig set-ups – so be different and reap the inevitable rewards! Personally whatever is fashionable in the magazines are things I would avoid or simply adapt in my own way so I am not replicating what thousands of my fellow anglers will be doing next weekend!

The fact is that most readymade boilies or pellets have very similar shapes whether round, barrel or pellet-shaped. When you fully appreciate that fish are practicing 24 hours a day at detecting hook baits shaped like this and you actually see the behaviours and feeding motions carp use to avoid getting hooked it basically makes you see how vital is to be different in order to not let carp use their tricks so easily. For instance, on so many so-called anti-eject rigs carp can be seen to actually pick a bait up, sit upright slowly, or spin, shake or do other tricks like lift up the rig or lead with a fin, then up-end and dump the hook and bait back down again. This kind of thing goes on all the time with heavy leads and semi-fixed rigs for instance.

I have never yet found a chemically sharpened hook as effective as a manually honed hook. The first 4 millimetres of a hook are the most important. The angle of the bend and shank and gap of the hook which is the distance between the hook shank and the hook point in effect both make a massive difference in your hooking ration both neither of these are important if your hook penetrates so far but then can be shaken loose – and all non-manually sharpened hooks have this problem.

In 10 years of tests using all kinds of new and old favourite chemically sharpened hooks patterns non has converted as effectively as hooks that have been manually sharpened. It amazes me how many well-known anglers still persist in using chemically-sharpened hooks with a short hook point – for me such hooks are completely useless whether they are specially-angled, have a long curved shank, an in-turned eye, micro-barb or wide gap or whatever.

The best guarantee to initially deep hooking wary fish upon very first contact with a fish is to choose hooks with a longer point that is as thin and as sharp as is possible and I have yet to find any pattern whatever that beats the effectiveness of exceptionally sharp manually honed hooks sharp well beyond their chemically sharpened state in the packet!

My conclusions after years of testing hooks against this manual method is that you might as well put on a rig without a hook on and let every fish pick up your bait then drop it and get away without giving you any indication at all. I know without any doubt whatsoever that so many anglers are missing out on fish due their hooks not being maximised that simply no-one would believe the numbers!

I might be going into areas beyond what so anglers might like to think about but I find that removing the coating from hooks also produces more fish. In part this probably means they do not reflect light under water so well – very few hooks do not reflect light very obviously no matter what colour their coating is. It is very likely also that as hooks with no coating actively rust under water this may actually be attractive or stimulatory to carp in some way and this treatment may also have impacts regarding the electrical field formed around rig swivels and hooks and leads etc that carp can detect – mineral rich natural water is an electrolyte after all!

Most anglers do not appear to fully appreciate that the modern style of sitting behind an array of rods waiting for a run or a few bleeps on alarms requires that a rig actually penetrates and self-hooks fish to the degree that the hook really does penetrate enough into flesh so it stays put long enough for either the fish to decide to move off and give you a run, or for you to strike at a bleep or 2 on your alarms (if you happen to be a sharper carper that is!)

Of all the things I spend time doing in connection with fishing I spend the most time on hook sharpening because after all the efforts involved in making sure everything else is as refined as possible the last 4 millimetres of hook point are ultimately the thing that decides just how many times you will actually properly hook the kinds of oldest biggest wariest of fish that are most skilled at shaking and slipping hooks out after making mistakes on hook baits! (Was that single bleep you had during that last feeding spell yet another lost fish you will never know had picked up your bait but got away with it?!)

More and more often on carp waters today the fish are getting increasingly larger numbers of anglers fishing for them more and more regularly. It is obvious that the result of this is that fish are getting more and more practice at avoiding hooks and slipping hooks – even when initially getting partially hooked.

Wary fish learn by simple association and with most magazine writers using plastic coated rigs or types of stiffer hook-links in short lengths of maybe 4 to 8 inches (and encouraging readers to copy them,) carp very soon learn how to get off such rigs when used so much even though it will appear that such rigs are very effective because a certain percentage of fish still move off and deepen the hook penetration for so fish get caught.

It is a fact that certain fish a far more adept at actually getting off hooks (when initially hooked) compared to other fish – and that some fish are far less skilled. Compared to other fish often the downfall of so-called mug fish is that they just are not as skilled at shaking or twisting off hooks when initially hooked unlike other fish and so they get landed far more frequently than lesser-caught big fish!

Some of the so-called big mug fish in carp waters may have unique genetically related nutritional deficiencies and unique eating requirements or sensitivities to certain substances (or have certain taste specifics.) They may very likely have angler-caused diseases such as vitamin E deficiency caused by consuming large quantities of high oil pellets that anglers today seem addicted to using as free offerings in huge volumes without thinking of the consequences on carp health!

Few anglers actually stop to think to add up the actual volume of high oil pellets and boilies that enter the food chain where numbers of anglers constantly introduce bait on pressured fisheries!

Sure some big fish are far more naturally feeding type fish but all this shows how each and every fish is an individual and treating them as such will definitely help you catch those big wary fish! Revealed in my unique readymade bait and homemade bait carp and catfish bait secrets ebooks is far more powerful information – look up my unique website (Baitbigfish) and see my biography for details of my ebooks deals right now!

By Tim Richardson.

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Basic Guide To Carp Fishing

Frustrating as it is, carp fishing is awesome. Carp are really good at sucking in and blowing out suspicious baits. It’s such an excitement to see the whole action in a fraction of a second as you hang on for dear life while the reel is trembling with a loud noise.


Carp happily devour on the surface as long as you keep the pellets, biscuits, chic peas, bread, and re-hydrated corn coming in, and these are inexpensive baits as well. Just attach them to the hooks, most preferably the bread. Have the biscuits softened by dipping it in the water for about 2 minutes, then, place them in a sealed sandwich bag for about an hour. Since different brands have different textures, just experiment to know which is firm enough to cast. Another way to hook baits is super gluing the pellet into the shank.


Once they get into feeding, let them feel comfortable around the bait. This gives more opportunity for the fisherman since they begin to not feel picky. This tactic can be useful for zig rigs.


As soon as they’re feeding, cast the bait but make sure not to drop the bait directly onto the feeding carp. Cast away from the feeding area then slowly draw it in position. While the bait is till hanging, keep the food coming in so as to keep the carp from going away.


How to Set-Up?


– Use a hair rig to increase your chance of catching. As carp taste food first, if they don’t like the taste, they won’t come near it.


– You may also use a Spider Line, 50 lbs test, then use a leader material that fits the situation.


– Thread the bait on the baiting needle and hook the hair loop. You may also use foam dipped in a flavor as this enhances the attractiveness of the bait.


– Also make a baiting needle by just straightening a long shank hook. Slide the bait on the shank, then slide the bait from the needle onto the hair.


-Using a float is also an advantage because it adds weight for further distancing and the location is easily identified.


– Don’t forget the controller float rig. A leader can be used which is attached to the swivel to its mainline of at least 3 feet length with a 10lbs Drennan double strength. A low diameter mono will do just as long as erts say, it is not the bait that catches the carp but the method in which the bait is introduced. Pre-bait everyday, in one spot for a few days. This makes the carp think that there is a regular source of food for them and by word of mouth there’ll soon be a school of fish around. Just be patient and it will all work.

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Carp Fishing Basics ? The Fundamentals

Carp is a collective name of the fishes found in fresh waters. These fishes are natives of Europe & Asia. Lately they have been introduced to various locations around the world, though with mixed results. Carp fishes can be of various types, these are:

Common Carp: Also known as European carp and is found in Asia & Eastern Europe.
Silver Carp: These fishes are filter feeder and are difficult to catch on typical hook and line gear. Special methods have been developed for these fishes.
Bighead Carp: These are of large sizes and are equally filter feeders as the silver carps. These are also known as bighead carp and can be captured through suspension method.
Grass Carp: These fishes grow in small lakes and backwaters that provide an abundant supply of fresh water vegetation. Grass carp are strong fighters on a rod and reel, because of their vegetarian habits and their wariness.
Crucian Carp: These fishes are mostly found in lakes, ponds, and slow-moving rivers throughout Europe and Asia. These are basically a hybrid species & thus are basically regarded as a threat to other native aquatic animals.

Lately carp fishing is becoming increasingly popular in the UK and Europe and surprisingly each week hundreds or maybe thousands of new anglers experience the pleasure of catching big carp. As the crap fishing is gaining some popularity, the industry is also growing very fast. Accordingly, many top tackle manufacturers are consistently improving products and developing new ideas to provide new methods to make carp fishing a hassle free job. Manufactures have been successful to incorporate latest technologies in fishing lines, bait and rig presentation.

Interestingly, carp fish possess a natural instinct to learn and adapt to various dangers in order to survive. Carp quickly learns the most common angling tactics used by carp fishermen. As the fish learn by association they start to recognize various baiting situations as dangerous and some may start to avoid an angler’s bait altogether! That’s why anglers are always in to inventing newer techniques to catch a carp and a little intelligent thinking is necessary to make a crap compelled to hook in to the bait.

The author writes on Marine, Fishing, Boating and related topics for many reputed publishers.

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